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Green and red neon Russ & Daughters Appetizers sign over the steel and glass shopfront on East Houston Street

Russ & Daughters photo by Ajay Suresh, CC BY 2.0

How to Spend 4 Hours in New York: A Lower East Side Food Crawl

Updated October 3, 2026

Four hours in New York is just right for a Lower East Side food crawl, from a century old knish bakery and lox at Russ & Daughters to retro candy, Essex Market and barrel pickles.

Plan lengths
  • 3 hours
  • 4 hours
  • 6 hours
  • 8 hours

A century ago the blocks between Houston and Grand were among the most crowded on earth, packed with Jewish immigrants who sold herring from barrels and knishes from carts. A handful of their shops still stand, run by grandchildren or by newer owners who kept the recipes, and together they add up to a long walking meal. Pace yourself, because every stop serves something you'll want to finish, and the whole route covers less than a mile. Get going in late morning: Russ & Daughters closes in the middle of the afternoon, and its line only grows once lunch arrives. Yonah Schimmel's front room is tiny, so leave a suitcase at a Bounce shop before you start. As of October 2026, a bag costs from $2.90 a day.

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The 4 hour plan, stop by stop

Stops and travel: 2 hr 11 min to 3 hr 11 min of 4 hours

  1. Stop #1: Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery

    Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery storefront on Houston Street with a yellow sign reading Since 1910, an old shop window and people walking past

    Photo: Tessa Bury, CC BY-SA 4.0

    Yonah Schimmel began by selling knishes from a pushcart, and the bakery has stood on this stretch of Houston Street since 1910, long before the street was widened around it. The room is proudly unrenovated, with a tin ceiling, faded photographs and a dumbwaiter that brings trays up from the basement ovens. These are the round, baked kind, dense and peppery and rolled by hand every day. Choose from classic potato, kasha made with buckwheat, spinach, sweet potato, and sweet cheese filled with cherries or blueberries.

    What to order

    • Potato knish
    • Kasha knish
    • Spinach knish
    • Sweet potato knish
    • Cherry cheese knish

    Tip: Split a potato and a kasha knish, warmed, with mustard; one of each is plenty for two at the start of a food crawl.

    Time here
    20 to 30 min
    Website
    knishery.com
    Navi

    Time to head out from Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery for Russ & Daughters. It's a 3 minute walk if you leave now. Here's the link

  2. Stop #2: Russ & Daughters

    Joel Russ started out selling herring from a barrel, opened this shop in 1914 and, with no sons, made his three daughters partners, which is how the sign got its name. Four generations on, it remains the city's great appetizing store, the word New Yorkers use for the smoked fish and dairy side of Jewish cooking. This is the original shop, not the sit down cafe on Orchard Street. Cases glow with hand sliced salmon, sable, whitefish salad, herring in cream sauce and caviar, and the shelves hold babka and rugelach.

    What to order

    • Classic Bagel and Lox Sandwich
    • Whitefish salad on a bialy
    • Herring in cream sauce
    • Chocolate babka
    • Rugelach

    Tip: Pull a ticket the moment you walk in, ask the slicer for a taste of sable before you choose, then eat on a bench outside since the shop has no seats.

    Time here
    25 to 40 min
    Website
    shop.russanddaughters.com
    Navi

    Time to head out from Russ & Daughters for Economy Candy. It's a 6 minute walk if you leave now. Here's the link

  3. Stop #3: Economy Candy

    Economy Candy opened in 1937, in the depths of the Depression, and earned its name selling sweets cheaply to neighborhood kids. The family-run shop on Rivington Street is crammed floor to ceiling with thousands of candies. Look for the wax bottles and candy buttons your grandparents would recognize, walls of Pez dispensers, imported chocolate bars, oversized gummies and hard to find sodas. Bins of halvah, dried fruit and nuts are a holdover from the old Jewish Lower East Side, when this was where families bought treats for the holidays.

    Tip: Buy a slab of halvah by weight to carry home, since it survives a flight far better than chocolate does.

    Time here
    15 to 25 min
    Website
    economycandy.com
    Navi

    Time to head out from Economy Candy for Essex Market. It's a 4 minute walk if you leave now. Here's the link

  4. Stop #4: Essex Market

    Mayor Fiorello La Guardia opened Essex Market in 1940 to move the neighborhood's pushcart peddlers indoors, and in 2019 it crossed Delancey Street into a bright new hall at Essex Crossing. More than thirty vendors fill the ground floor. Davidovich Bakery does bagels, Puebla Mexican Food makes tacos and tamales, Formaggio Essex sells cheese and Shopsin's General Store serves Kenny Shopsin's famously sprawling menu. Porto Rico Importing roasts coffee beans, and Dominican produce stands and fishmongers fill the gaps. Climb to the mezzanine for seats looking over Delancey.

    What to order

    • Tacos from Puebla Mexican Food
    • Bagel from Davidovich Bakery
    • Cheese from Formaggio Essex
    • Coffee from Porto Rico Importing

    Tip: By now you need only a little, so share a taco from Puebla and carry a coffee up to the mezzanine tables.

    Time here
    40 min to 1 hr
    Website
    essexmarket.nyc
    Navi

    Time to head out from Essex Market for The Pickle Guys. It's a 3 minute walk if you leave now. Here's the link

  5. Stop #5: The Pickle Guys

    Grand Street and nearby Essex Street were once the pickle district of the Lower East Side, lined with barrel men curing cucumbers for immigrant families. The Pickle Guys keep that method going in open barrels of garlicky brine. New pickles stay bright green and crunchy, half sours sit in between, and full sours soak until they turn olive and tangy; there are hot pickles too, plus pickled tomatoes, okra, carrots, pineapple and horseradish. Staff fish them out by hand and seal them in deli containers topped with brine, and everything is kosher.

    What to order

    • Full sour pickle
    • Half sour pickle
    • Hot pickle
    • Pickled pineapple
    • Horseradish pickle

    Tip: Buy a single full sour to eat on the sidewalk, and ask to taste a new pickle beside it to see how the brine changes the bite.

    Time here
    15 to 20 min
    Website
    pickleguys.com

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